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I write this in the spirit of asking questions rather than arguing a position.
I have three "steels".My original steel is a metal Henckels with vertical file grooves. It always seemed brutal to me; I have not used it since Steve gave gave me a Smoky Mountain ceramic rod. It suited me much better. It was less coarse, however, it still removes metal. The third rod, another ceramic, is a rod I tested for Work Sharp Culinary. Both ceramic rods have an angle guide, which I like.
The Work Sharp rod rotates in the handle, two quadrands being smooth, two having vertical filings. This seems like a nice feature, however, I have evolved to only using the smooth portions. The smooth areas accumulate dark matter from the removed knife metal. I have gradually evolved to both fewer strokes and much lighter pressure.
I have read in several sources that the major cause of failure with knife steels is that most people do not know how to use them. This seems very believable to me. If I decide to pursue steeling more deeply, I will purchase a smooth steel or carbide rod and focus on straightening the edge rather than removing part of it.
Any thoughts?
Ken
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If the problem is a rolled edge use a smooth steel I say. I don't understand grooved steels at all. It's just a metal file and who sharpens today with a file? I think that all ceramic rods must have some abrasive quality to them. This can be reduced if the ceramic rod has been polished. I say that if the edge needs to be straightened then use a hard smooth steel. If the edge needs to be ground then use your Viel. Measure the edge with your edge tester before steeling and then after. That will let you know how good a "steeler" you actually are.
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Below is a link to an interesting post concerning steeling. I'm looking forward to part 2.
I have no experience using a steel as I'm afraid I will blunt or roll the edge of the knives that I have sharpened.
I do know that the butcher I sharpen for uses one constantly. He has a belt with a "holster" on one side that holds an assortment of knives and his sharpening steel on the other. Next time I see him I'll ask him what type he uses and how he uses it.
https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/201...do-part-1/
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09-03-2018, 04:05 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-03-2018, 04:08 AM by KnifeGrinders.)
(09-02-2018, 10:46 PM)grepper Wrote: I'll be interested in hearing how often your butcher steels. I was very surprised to read Mr. KG's report that the meat plant guys steeled every 10 cuts. That amount of steeling seems extremely excessive to me.
I wonder if your butcher can "quick draw" his steel from his holster. 
I've reread my notes on steeling from the plant assessment - operators follow the routine of using the flicker after every 2-3 pieces, and the steel rod every 5-6 pieces.
They call "Flicker" the smooth spring-loaded twin steeling rods/wires, wall-mounted.
"Steel rod" - is the F.Dick combi steel smooth/fine-cut, and they are instructed to steel on the smooth (polished) steel as long as it works, and only then use the fine-cut, and continue with the smooth.
Each piece on the conveyer requires 2-4 cuts.
http://knifeGrinders.com.au
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(09-03-2018, 04:05 AM)KnifeGrinders Wrote: (09-02-2018, 10:46 PM)grepper Wrote: I'll be interested in hearing how often your butcher steels. I was very surprised to read Mr. KG's report that the meat plant guys steeled every 10 cuts. That amount of steeling seems extremely excessive to me.
I wonder if your butcher can "quick draw" his steel from his holster.
I've reread my notes on steeling from the plant assessment - operators follow the routine of using the flicker after every 2-3 pieces, and the steel rod every 5-6 pieces.
They call "Flicker" the smooth spring-loaded twin steeling rods/wires, wall-mounted.
"Steel rod" - is the F.Dick combi steel smooth/fine-cut, and they are instructed to steel on the smooth (polished) steel as long as it works, and only then use the fine-cut, and continue with the smooth.
Each piece on the conveyer requires 2-4 cuts.
So, last weekend I sharpened six of his boning knives and one 8" butcher knife. When I brought them back I asked about his steeling method and what type steel he uses.
He goes by feel not a "number of cuts" but he guessed around 4-8 cuts depending on the knife at hand. He uses a combination steel like KG referenced above. Didn't think to ask the maker. He tried a ceramic steel but found it too fragile for his use. He had never heard of the spring loaded spring steel a.k.a "Flicker" style. I have one that came with the Razor's Edge kit I bought 12 years ago that still sits in my cabinet. I'm going to bring it to the shop and see what he thinks about it.
To Grepper's question about quick draw, I've never seen him in action. He does his cutting before the shop opens and when he processes a deer it is in a back room. I might ask him to let me watch him work one of these weekends.
Ed K.
That said, I don't know what a double sided burr is, but I may have speculated something like that years ago when I lacked the understanding of burrs that I have now. Umm, not saying that I really understand burrs now, but probably a bit better than I did years ago. 
