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Toothy edge with Atoma 140 grit
#1
   
   

Method: Atoma 140 grit(Edge trail) >>> Leather stropping(PA-70)

Sharpness: 105, 155, 85(The average is 115 BESS)

Can you see the "LOW"?
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#2
That's one gnarly toothy edge Mr. Sharpco, and you got it very sharp.  That should be a super slicer and not ride on the surface of anything.  You'll have to let us know what you think of its performance.

Can I see LOW?  Yes, especially on the left side if the edge in the second image.  It's the bulbous stuff that looks like a small roll right at the edge.

That said, if it were my knife I wouldn't worry about it because for all intents and practical purposes you'll never notice it.   That blade is very toothy and sharp and should slice though just about anything like butter.

For my own knives I'm just not as picky as I used to be.  As long as it's around 150  and pretty well deburred I just call it good and use the knife.  When it gets dull enough that it bothers me I just give it a quick touch up.  No big deal, it doesn't take long to touch up and I'm totally happy with the performance.  But that's just me and there is nothing wrong with trying to get a perfect edge.

   
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#3
Thank you for checking the LOW. 


I tried more stropping to remove it but the result of it was wearing the tooth. 

Anyway, this toothy edge was very impressive. It cut more easily than polished sharper edge.
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#4
Yeah, removing burr whilst preserving tooth is the real trick.  I've had very good results using a well worn extra fine Scotch-Brite belt.  For whatever reason, Scotch-Brite belts seem to be able to grab onto the LOW and lift it from the edge so that it can be removed without smoothing the edge.

It takes a bit of practice as Scotch-Brite can chew up the edge if you are not careful, but with some practice it is very effective.

In some other post I demonstrated with images how LOW is metal piled up against the bevel.  I took an Exacto blade, slid it up the side of the blade, down the bevel, and pushed it up against the bottom of the LOW.   The tip of the blade pushed the LOW off the bevel and stood it up.  After that it was easily removed.  The trick is to pry it off the edge without removing tooth.  I can't find my first post, but this covers it:
http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...24#pid3824


"Anyway, this toothy edge was very impressive. It cut more easily than polished sharper edge."  I have to agree with you there!  The edge you show is very sharp and toothy, and personally, I wouldn't worry about the small amount of LOW still remaining.  Others may feel differently, but in my experience nothing beats a sharp toothy edge.  It seems like you have found a method that works well for you.  Good job! Smile
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#5
Excellent, Mr. Sharpco! That's the kind of edge I like to see off the Atoma. What is the steel?

Sounds like it was much better after you broke tha 140 in? It looks like you might have made one more light pass on the burr side. Maybe. The other side obviously has a pretty good scratch pattern to the edge. Are you finishing edge leading or edge trailing? 

If that little bit of burr-ish type stuff is causing a high reading off 155, I'd call that the price of doing business Efficiently. Having the edge that clean on the rest of the blade... Mr. Grepper is right- Not noticable.

It looks like you came off the belt at what... like 400 grit? Then a couple passes on the Atoma? Please explain your stropping regimine. Did you measure before and after?

I've gotten complacent, and don't bother to use leather any more. Just a light pass on the burr side to finish, but I'll revisit that. I have noticed my edges can be a bit coarse for opening mail, but the edges do tend to "break in" (smooth out) on their own.


Thank you for the pictures of what a properly applied 140 Atoma edge looks like.  Wink
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#6
Mark.

It's mainstream stainless Santoku knife, and I didn't broke my Atoma 140 grit. And I finished it with edge trailing.

The sharpening and stropping was very simple. After Atoma 140, I stropped it with my paddle strop applied PA-70.

You can see this strop at the following video. https://youtu.be/iORw_kvsuDw

Next time, I'll add Scotch Brite pad for removing LOW Smile
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#7
You use a Viel, right Mr. Sharpco? Don't try edge-leading with a Scotch-Brite belt! Edge-leading into Scotch-Brite would even worse than edge-leading into leather and make for a bad day instantly.

However, I discovered how well Scotch-Brite worked by dragging the edge over a Scotch-Brite belt edge-trailing by hand the same way as using a stone. I was surprised at how well it worked. I don't know if it would work any better than your Atoma, but it's another option to play with.

Scotch-Brite is a more forgiving surface than a stone so it will be different. If you try it I would be interested in hearing how it worked in comparison to your stone.
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#8
Wow Mr. Sharpco.  I watched your video and I'm impressed at how good at sharpening you have become in a short time.  It looks to me that you have it figured out.  Those sharp and toothy edges you are producing should make anyone very happy!  Congrats.

You are incredibly fast at spreading oil and compound on your strop. Smile

You might be able to save some time by just smearing oil/compound around with a flat piece of plastic.

The cool thing is that you have found a method to sharpen and remove burr that is quick and works well for you.  I think that's what it's all about.
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#9
grepper, 

The knife in the video had polished edge and what I did is just touch-up. 

But it also true that the time I took to make a toothy edge with another knife is similar to that Smile
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