06-30-2017, 06:50 PM
Several members have indicated that they will be modifying their Viel belt grinders. I hope this brief roadmap of what worked both well and not so well for me may be beneficial. The variable speed modified Viel has been a joy to use, and has exceeded my expectations. However, being honest, I must admit that my path was not the most direct or cost efficient. While my Viel is quite functional, I consider my workmanship a bit clumsy.
If I was restarting from scratch, I would purchase the bare bones Viel (no motor) and the Penn State variable speed motor. For those who prefer simplicity or are on a tight budget, the bulk of the benefits may be obtained by just mounting the motor to the Viel frame and matching the diameter of the motor shaft and the bore of the Viel pulley. Mounting the motor is within the realm of the home shop. Mating the diameters will require a metal lathe. Neither job should require much shop time. For those who lack experience with metal, having both operations done by a machine shop makes sense.
Two thoughts regarding Penn State Industries: Sign up for the email list. PSI runs frequent sales. You may well be able to save twenty percent. Also, (I did not know this, nor have I confirmed it), contact PSI and see if your motor can be shipped with the four step pulley removed. I had to fight with a gear puller to remove mine. It was a nuisance.
The motor comes with a 15mm shaft, approximately .590". The bore of the Viel pulley is half inch, approximately .500" Your choice, reduce the diameter of the motor shaft or bore out the pulley. Either way will work. Reducing the shaft seems the popular favorite, perhaps on the dubious possibility of reusing the motor for another application. I followed good traditional advice and had the shaft reduced. In my case, the motor shop also installed a reversing switch. I suspect boring out the pulley may be the most cost efficient choice.
Regarding mounting the motor, I have not seen it, however, I believe Rupert's bracket for mounting the motor may be the ideal path. The next best path would be to scrape off the plastic from the PSI included bracket. I sawed off the handle, which was not an efficient choice.
I oriented the motor such that the label was centered on top. A better choice would have been to place the two motor brush screws at three and nine o'clock.
I used 12mm Baltic birch plywood for the two sides (7x12") and the cross piece which holds the motor controller. The cross piece is joined with a dado and two #6x1 1/2" screws on each sude. No glue; the entire assembly is easily removable. Four 1 1/2" quarter by twenty thread flat head screws secure the wooden box to the metal frame. I chose the countersunk flat head bolts so that the unit could lay flat on either side.
The cross piece is flush at the top and two inches shorter than the sides. This makes easy storage for the motor cord. This has proved a good design.
Rather than trying to provide access holes for the brushes, I decided it was just as easy to remove the wooden box, if needed.
I originally planned to use 19mm Bbp, however the extra thickness would have made mounting the motor control difficult.
I used Bbp because I have worked with it before and had a supply on hand. I believe it will go the distance. If not, I can easily replace it. For rougher duty, like regular farmers market professional duty, I think 1/8" aluminum plate like Max uses would be a better choice.
I really like the slower speed. It is quiet and the work stays cool. I have not needed the reversing option. I still like the idea, however, it is something which could easily be added later, if desired.
Once the motor is mounted and the pulley and shaft mated, any further work can be done or postponed. Building the wooden housing allowed me to safely secure the motor control. Transporting the unit is easier now.
In fact, almost anything beyond mounting the motor and connecting the shaft can be done at anytime or not at all. The added housing, wood or metal, offers little real benefit for a stationary set up. I have several plans for my Viel, the delay being budgetary prudence. I plan to add pyroceram to the platen. I plan to add some of the Viel jigs, most notably the drill bit jig. I plan to add a block arrangement to allow a knife to be held flat(level) and have the belt at the bevel angle. I may adapt the Viel to work with Tormek jigs. Beyond that, who knows?
I hope this is useful. I have intentionally not gone into much detail to keep the post reasonably short. Please feel free to ask questions. I am not a guru; constructive criticism is most welcome. As I have stated before, I am indebted to other forum members for guidance in this project.
Ken
If I was restarting from scratch, I would purchase the bare bones Viel (no motor) and the Penn State variable speed motor. For those who prefer simplicity or are on a tight budget, the bulk of the benefits may be obtained by just mounting the motor to the Viel frame and matching the diameter of the motor shaft and the bore of the Viel pulley. Mounting the motor is within the realm of the home shop. Mating the diameters will require a metal lathe. Neither job should require much shop time. For those who lack experience with metal, having both operations done by a machine shop makes sense.
Two thoughts regarding Penn State Industries: Sign up for the email list. PSI runs frequent sales. You may well be able to save twenty percent. Also, (I did not know this, nor have I confirmed it), contact PSI and see if your motor can be shipped with the four step pulley removed. I had to fight with a gear puller to remove mine. It was a nuisance.
The motor comes with a 15mm shaft, approximately .590". The bore of the Viel pulley is half inch, approximately .500" Your choice, reduce the diameter of the motor shaft or bore out the pulley. Either way will work. Reducing the shaft seems the popular favorite, perhaps on the dubious possibility of reusing the motor for another application. I followed good traditional advice and had the shaft reduced. In my case, the motor shop also installed a reversing switch. I suspect boring out the pulley may be the most cost efficient choice.
Regarding mounting the motor, I have not seen it, however, I believe Rupert's bracket for mounting the motor may be the ideal path. The next best path would be to scrape off the plastic from the PSI included bracket. I sawed off the handle, which was not an efficient choice.
I oriented the motor such that the label was centered on top. A better choice would have been to place the two motor brush screws at three and nine o'clock.
I used 12mm Baltic birch plywood for the two sides (7x12") and the cross piece which holds the motor controller. The cross piece is joined with a dado and two #6x1 1/2" screws on each sude. No glue; the entire assembly is easily removable. Four 1 1/2" quarter by twenty thread flat head screws secure the wooden box to the metal frame. I chose the countersunk flat head bolts so that the unit could lay flat on either side.
The cross piece is flush at the top and two inches shorter than the sides. This makes easy storage for the motor cord. This has proved a good design.
Rather than trying to provide access holes for the brushes, I decided it was just as easy to remove the wooden box, if needed.
I originally planned to use 19mm Bbp, however the extra thickness would have made mounting the motor control difficult.
I used Bbp because I have worked with it before and had a supply on hand. I believe it will go the distance. If not, I can easily replace it. For rougher duty, like regular farmers market professional duty, I think 1/8" aluminum plate like Max uses would be a better choice.
I really like the slower speed. It is quiet and the work stays cool. I have not needed the reversing option. I still like the idea, however, it is something which could easily be added later, if desired.
Once the motor is mounted and the pulley and shaft mated, any further work can be done or postponed. Building the wooden housing allowed me to safely secure the motor control. Transporting the unit is easier now.
In fact, almost anything beyond mounting the motor and connecting the shaft can be done at anytime or not at all. The added housing, wood or metal, offers little real benefit for a stationary set up. I have several plans for my Viel, the delay being budgetary prudence. I plan to add pyroceram to the platen. I plan to add some of the Viel jigs, most notably the drill bit jig. I plan to add a block arrangement to allow a knife to be held flat(level) and have the belt at the bevel angle. I may adapt the Viel to work with Tormek jigs. Beyond that, who knows?
I hope this is useful. I have intentionally not gone into much detail to keep the post reasonably short. Please feel free to ask questions. I am not a guru; constructive criticism is most welcome. As I have stated before, I am indebted to other forum members for guidance in this project.
Ken