03-29-2019, 03:57 AM
My current supply of diamond grit comes from here: http://www.techdiamondtools.com/ and is actually quite affordable.
So far i have good experiences with 230 grit and 170 grit.
No worries about heat build-up here, as i have found that covering the diamond grit layer with the same wax that is also used on a gritted Paper Wheel keeps the temperature at the apex well below critical values, and the edges sharpened this way also perform very well, both at initial sharpness & longevity.
Combining diamond grit and wax makes use of certain specific properties of both.
Any frictional heat from sharpening is quickly and efficiently "wicked away" by the diamond grit itself due to diamond's extremely high thermal conductivity (even higher than CBN), but if just left there the diamond particles would quickly deteriorate from overheating.
Covering the diamond grit with wax however makes that the diamond particles can transfer the heat directly to the wax, which in turn neutralizes it by beginning to melt (and immediately solidify again while the Wheel spins)
To glue the diamond particles on the rim of a Rubber Wheel i use a good quality waterproof wood glue.
My current Rubber Wheel coated this way with 170 grit mono-diamond is in use for about two years, and still works as intended (which i keep track of through detailed customer feedback)
I've also been using a combination of various diamond pastes & specialty oils for years on Paper Wheels, which also works quite well.
See this thread on the Australian Bladeforums:
https://www.australianbladeforums.com/vb...edges.html
So far i have good experiences with 230 grit and 170 grit.
No worries about heat build-up here, as i have found that covering the diamond grit layer with the same wax that is also used on a gritted Paper Wheel keeps the temperature at the apex well below critical values, and the edges sharpened this way also perform very well, both at initial sharpness & longevity.
Combining diamond grit and wax makes use of certain specific properties of both.
Any frictional heat from sharpening is quickly and efficiently "wicked away" by the diamond grit itself due to diamond's extremely high thermal conductivity (even higher than CBN), but if just left there the diamond particles would quickly deteriorate from overheating.
Covering the diamond grit with wax however makes that the diamond particles can transfer the heat directly to the wax, which in turn neutralizes it by beginning to melt (and immediately solidify again while the Wheel spins)
To glue the diamond particles on the rim of a Rubber Wheel i use a good quality waterproof wood glue.
My current Rubber Wheel coated this way with 170 grit mono-diamond is in use for about two years, and still works as intended (which i keep track of through detailed customer feedback)
I've also been using a combination of various diamond pastes & specialty oils for years on Paper Wheels, which also works quite well.
See this thread on the Australian Bladeforums:
https://www.australianbladeforums.com/vb...edges.html