05-24-2018, 01:16 PM
I recently finished my first spool of media for my fabulous new PT50. Congratulations EOU, the PT50 is really a lot faster and easier to use than the original KN100!
I had a couple small issues with the PT50A. I don't know how the PT50B is different, so this may or may not be applicable.
I don't always have a pair of reading glasses around when I need them, so I was having a little difficulty with a couple things.
First, it wasn't easy for me to always get the edge of the blade in the slot of the blade rest. Sometimes I would drag the edge across the hard plastic, which probably doesn't make any difference to a 150 edge, but I've been working with fine edges lately. The rest also seemed a little tall, so I decided to customize one of the two knife rests that were included.
I took the magnet off so I could accurately cut the height down to the bottom of the groove, and super glued a wafer of cork on top, which can't affect even a super fine edge. Not having to hit the slot just makes things way easier for me.
![[Image: FDpnPvS.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/FDpnPvS.jpg)
It wasn't always easy for me to get the media under the plastic nut on the yolk because of the groove machined into the yolk. I just thought it would be easier if I didn't have to back the plastic nut out of the groove, so I ground the groove off flush.
![[Image: 89ffFGd.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/89ffFGd.jpg)
A couple things- It was easy to grind the groove off perfectly with the bottom of the yolk on the table of a grinder, but I wanted the extra traction of the scratch pattern being horizontal instead of vertical. This was a little trickier, because I had to lay the yolk on it's side, which is round, and eyeball it. I'm not sure how much difference that makes, but I barely need to snug the lock screw, so it seems to work considerably easier to me.
*Special Note* If you grind the groove off the yolk, do not forget to blow the screw hole out with compressed air! There will be metal filings in the hole, which will ruin the plastic threads. Also, the edges of the top groove will be sharp after grinding, so make sure to ease them with fine sandpaper or a buffer.
Just my 2¢. YMMV
I had a couple small issues with the PT50A. I don't know how the PT50B is different, so this may or may not be applicable.
I don't always have a pair of reading glasses around when I need them, so I was having a little difficulty with a couple things.
First, it wasn't easy for me to always get the edge of the blade in the slot of the blade rest. Sometimes I would drag the edge across the hard plastic, which probably doesn't make any difference to a 150 edge, but I've been working with fine edges lately. The rest also seemed a little tall, so I decided to customize one of the two knife rests that were included.
I took the magnet off so I could accurately cut the height down to the bottom of the groove, and super glued a wafer of cork on top, which can't affect even a super fine edge. Not having to hit the slot just makes things way easier for me.
It wasn't always easy for me to get the media under the plastic nut on the yolk because of the groove machined into the yolk. I just thought it would be easier if I didn't have to back the plastic nut out of the groove, so I ground the groove off flush.
A couple things- It was easy to grind the groove off perfectly with the bottom of the yolk on the table of a grinder, but I wanted the extra traction of the scratch pattern being horizontal instead of vertical. This was a little trickier, because I had to lay the yolk on it's side, which is round, and eyeball it. I'm not sure how much difference that makes, but I barely need to snug the lock screw, so it seems to work considerably easier to me.
*Special Note* If you grind the groove off the yolk, do not forget to blow the screw hole out with compressed air! There will be metal filings in the hole, which will ruin the plastic threads. Also, the edges of the top groove will be sharp after grinding, so make sure to ease them with fine sandpaper or a buffer.
Just my 2¢. YMMV