01-04-2018, 09:40 AM
Thanks guys. Dave what I meant by quality steel is some steels that I have sharpened over the years the burr simply won't fall off. It tends to just roll over and never leaves a truly sharp edge. I've also seen edges chip when removing the burr. I think it has to do with several factors, hardening, tempering, make up of the steel, and probably how the particles are aligned. Probably a lot more. Good steel from reputable companies has never had this problem. I'm talking mostly about imported steel, usually HighSpeedSteel since that's what I tend to use a lot.
Me2 I did find that the carbon steel took the least effort and the PM11 took the most but there wasn't enough difference to really worry about it. To be consistent when sharpening I took the same number of strokes on each grit once I established how many it took to raise a burr on the PM11. On the sanding grits it was pretty close with each steel. When stropping it took considerably longer to achieve the fine edge with the Lee Valley Green honing compound. I found the gold bars that carvers use honed the edge much faster on the PM11. Again to be as consistent as possible I honed all of them on the Green bar for the final testing.
Me2 I did find that the carbon steel took the least effort and the PM11 took the most but there wasn't enough difference to really worry about it. To be consistent when sharpening I took the same number of strokes on each grit once I established how many it took to raise a burr on the PM11. On the sanding grits it was pretty close with each steel. When stropping it took considerably longer to achieve the fine edge with the Lee Valley Green honing compound. I found the gold bars that carvers use honed the edge much faster on the PM11. Again to be as consistent as possible I honed all of them on the Green bar for the final testing.