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+--- Thread: Kally build - some questions (/showthread.php?tid=270)
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RE: Kally build - some questions - grepper - 02-07-2018
I had thought the exact same thing. Mr. Mark’s looks very heavy, and as stated, the last thing you want it to have equipment topple over running or not.
I had also thought you could just bolt it to the floor. That would do it, while still keeping the stand much lighter.
RE: Kally build - some questions - Ken S - 02-07-2018
May I offer my humble, extremely low tech suggestion? I place two large boxes of cat litter on the low shelf of my ("table mount") drill press. It provides stability; is easily removed when I move the drill press with my appliance dolly (the old guy's alternative for youthful strength or a strong friend); and requires no hacksawing or filing to install.
Ken
RE: Kally build - some questions - grepper - 02-07-2018
That's actually not a bad idea Mr. Ken. The base could even be designed to hold a couple cement blocks, 40 lb bags of rock salt, cat litter or whatever. Cheap, and easy to remove for moving the stand around.
RE: Kally build - some questions - wadebevan - 02-07-2018
Good ideas gentlemen.
Given the design, it would not be difficult to add a bottom plate for a 'holding' area (salt, kitty litter, sand).
I like the idea that the unit can get lighter with minimal effort.
Thanks!
RE: Kally build - some questions - Mark Reich - 02-19-2018
I finally found the easiest way for me to post good pictures, so at last, here we go!
My Coote was my first 2x72. It comes with a small 4" square base, for mounting to something. With so little bearing surface, it needs to be mounted to steel (probably like a Kally). I didn't have much metal fab equipment at the time. I only needed a drill press, a low speed 12" carbide tooth metal chop saw, and a very old stick welder.
Here it is in place in my shop. Notice that the base is just a piece of heavy C-channel, 22" long x 12" wide. The grinder is well balanced to this minimalist, small footprint base. I can push against the platen with all my might. The base will slide into contact with the wall, but from then on it wight as well be mounted to the concrete.
![[Image: IaxHlJ1.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/IaxHlJ1.jpg)
Notice there is very little obstruction designed into the front of the base. My left foot actually goes under the base, so I can snuggle right up to the platen. This is Very important (grinders Never tip forward).
Here's the whole she-bang. The 4" heavy wall square tubing upright is welded to a 12" square piece of 3/4" plate, which is bolted to the base. I didn't have to worry about warping the base channel with heavy welds. It's absolutely rock steady, but easy to slide forwards and back. It's very stable side to side, and has never even hinted for more stability.
![[Image: qUfumR3.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/qUfumR3.jpg)
The relationship of the size of the pulley wheels was carefully planned for a high speed 3 phase motor and VFD. Speed control is just right, with plenty of low speed torque.
The Coote is bolted to a 4" wide, 8" long piece of 1/2" plate, which was (hastily) welded to the top of the 4" square upright. A closeup of the base design, reveals it's simplicity, but it's well balanced, with a low center of mass.
![[Image: c4bUFNP.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/c4bUFNP.jpg)
The base was designed to be stable with the grinder pivoted backwards, which allows working on the 10" drive/ contact wheel. Many of my first blades were hollow ground. I had a support bolted to the odd piece of steel sticking out beside the contact wheel. Note too that the heavy duty table pivots very easily and remains square to the belt on a Coote.
![[Image: SY9WKAa.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/SY9WKAa.jpg)
Finally, here is what makes this a true knife machine. The addition of small wheel capability is something I simply cannot do without.
![[Image: axTPGMn.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/axTPGMn.jpg)
So there you have it. The Coote is precisely engineered and self contained, providing more specialized knife grinding capability and bang for the buck than anything I've ever seen.
The combination of a 3 hp motor with an industrial Allen-Bradley VFD makes this a worthy machine in anyone's shop. When I need to vaporize a bunch of steel, this machine does so with aplomb.
If I may humbly offer, it's certainly not necessary nor desirable to monkey around with anything that isn't designed to be as simple and ridgedly stable as you'll ever need.
RE: Kally build - some questions - wadebevan - 02-20-2018
Wow, thanks Mark!
That is a good thorough view of a grinder for knives.
I'm currently redesigning some things with my build, and this helps a lot.
RE: Kally build - some questions - Mark Reich - 02-20-2018
Great to hear that was helpful for you, Mr. Wade!
The kind of 3/4 hp industrial grinder/buffer with a long 3/4" shaft can be of great use in lieu of a small wheel. Baldors are worth every penny (all 70,000). You can shape different width 8" grinding wheels to suit many needs. As buffers, I get along with low speed machines MUCH better than the ultra dangerous high speed version. I use them enough to justify having four machines (8 wheels). Grease-less abrasives on sewn cotton buffs are one of my secret weapons.
That big 2 hp Baldor disc grinder with reversible VFD is another indispensable tool for me. Lots of stuff needs to be perfectly flat and/or straight.